The Canned Tomatoes Beloved by Pizza Makers Near and Far
Plus: A Few Pizza Podcasts & A Recipe
Hello Pizza Friends,
Several years ago, while searching online for pizza podcasts, I came across Pizza City USA, hosted by Steve Dolinsky, a Chicago-based food reporter and tv personality. I started at episode one but quickly made my way through the entire collection of interviews between Steve and pizza makers across the country and world.
During these conversations, Steve asks all the burning questions — What type of flour? Is the dough leavened by yeast or a natural starter? What’s the dough’s hydration and how long is it fermented? What kind of cheese? How hot is the oven? —and in doing so, he not only sheds light on the pizzeria’s process but also unearths much of the backstory and inspiration, all of which I find fascinating.
As I listened, I learned that many of the pizza makers favored one particular brand of tomatoes, Stanislaus, which I had never heard of but soon learned is a California company that offers a number of tomato products and sells primarily to restaurants.
Their smallest can size is a #10, the equivalent of roughly three-and-a-half 28-ounce cans, and, as such, few mainstream grocery stores carry them. But I was determined to taste them, and with a little digging, I found them at a local restaurant supply store that also sells to the public. (Local friends, it’s By George in Ballston Spa.)
Even more exciting than learning I could actually get my hands on these beloved tomatoes, was learning that each #10 can cost only $6.60. I drove home that day with half a dozen #10 cans of the Stanislaus “Alta Cucina" (whole peeled plum tomatoes), the product I had heard mentioned the most on the podcast, and upon returning home, I made a quadruple batch of my favorite cooked tomato sauce recipe.
One of these #10 cans yielded roughly three quarts of heavenly sauce, tasting bright, sweet, and fresh all at once. Today, while I don’t always make sauce in this large-batch fashion, I find it so rewarding when I do — with the exception of having to slice a few more onions, the active work and total time is roughly the same.
Friends, if you find yourself holed up this weekend avoiding the cold or rain or overall crummy February elements, may I suggest you make a large batch of tomato sauce? To spoon over a Sicilian-style pizza or next week’s tomato pie (see below)? Or to freeze for a future date?
The recipe I’ve included below can be made with four 28-ounce cans of whole peeled plum tomatoes — I love La Valle and Di Napoli — or one #10 can, should you be able to get your hands on one.
More Good Pizza Listening
I have long loved the Taste podcast, hosted by Matt Rodbard, for its great interviews with chefs, cookbook authors, and other food people, but last week, Pizza Week, made for particularly good listening. I loved these conversations:
Noam Grossman of Upside (I’ve been dying to get a slice here since hearing him on this episode of Pizza City USA)
The Recipe: Large Batch Tomato Sauce
For this recipe, you’ll need either four 28-ounce cans of whole peeled plum tomatoes or one #10 can, which you can sometimes find at Italian delis and specialty stores as well as restaurant supply-type shops. Local friends, By George in Ballston Spa carries the Stanislaus Alta Cucina:
This recipe starts by sweating 8 cups of onions and 1 head of garlic in olive oil…
… until they’re soft.
Add pepper flakes and white wine or vodka and simmer…
… until the alcohol smell dissipates; then add the tomatoes.
Snip them with scissors to help them break down, then…
… simmer for roughly 15 minutes.
When the sauce is done…
… add fresh basil.
Then purée until smooth. Let cool completely, then…
… transfer to storage containers. Store in the fridge for a week (or more) or the freezer for up to 3 months (or more).
Next Week: Should We Make Tomato Pie?
So simple, so good:
Any topic you’d like covered? Please let me know. See you next Friday 🍕🍕
I would love to read about how you approach salad pizza. 🥗
Thank you for all you do! Your recipes are foolproof and I recommend you to everyone i know!
I have never tried the Alta Cucina tomatoes, but rather Stanislaus’ 7/11 ground tomatoes in #10 can. AND you can typically get them at a small Italian store right in Cobleskill called Perrones. Apptox. $6-$7/ can. They are so good I typically eat the tomatoes right out of the can with a spoon!!! Let me know if you’d like more info.