The Gozney Dome: A Review
Plus: 3 Common Outdoor Pizza Oven Mistakes & Fixes
Hello Pizza Friends,
Today we’re getting straight to business with a review of the Gozney Dome.
Let’s start from the top: I returned from Italy in August of 2022, my heart set on buying an outdoor pizza oven. I had just spent five days eating pizza two to three times a day, each one having been cooked for no more than 90 seconds. I loved the freshness of these pizzas: the light and airy texture of the crust; how the mozzarella melted but didn’t blister; how bright the sauce tasted.
I was attracted to the Gozney Dome for its size foremost: at this point, I owned a small Ooni (the Koda 12), and I wanted something larger, something that would give me a little more room to maneuver the pizza in the oven.
I liked the idea of being able to use both gas and wood.
I liked the look of the Dome. Of all the ovens in this genre, its shape most closely resembled that of a traditional pizza oven.
I watched a few videos, read a few reviews, then ordered the Dome. Within a week of its arrival, I had made a few pizzas, mostly bad, and quickly learned I needed practice. Looking back, I made many of the same mistakes so many people make when using these ovens for the first time, all of which I address below.
Having had the Dome for two years now, I have some thoughts, which I’ve shared below. I’ve also found a method I love, which I share in the video above. Let me know if you have any questions.
PS: Robynne, PhD of Historian in the Kitchen recently reviewed Pizza Night, and it was so much fun to see the pizzas she made and to read her thoughts. I am loving her honest reviews, writing, and perspective.
3 Common Outdoor Pizza Oven Mistakes & Fixes
Using the wrong dough and more specifically a dough that is too high in hydration and/or one that contains a sweetener. When cooking pizza at a higher temperature, you need to use a lower-hydration dough (see this post for a review as to why). Doughs that include any kind of sweetener will burn. Leave the sugar out!
Not preheating the oven sufficiently. Many of these outdoor oven brands advertise that their ovens can get up to 900ºF or hotter in 15 minutes. This has not been my experience. To ensure the stone of your oven is thoroughly preheated, I’d suggest heating your oven for at least 45 minutes before using.
Starting too hot. Again, due to marketing, it is natural to want to jump right in — to get the oven up to 900ºF and start slinging dough! But working with these ovens takes practice, and I suggest starting at a slightly lower temperature range: 650ºF to 750ºF. These pizzas will still cook in under 3 minutes, and the lower temperature range will be more forgiving. Once you get the hang of it, turn that dial up! But remember, you may need to lower your dough hydration if you do.
The Dome: Some Thoughts
Overall, I love my Gozney Dome. It’s really fun having an oven in the backyard that gets super hot and makes excellent Neapolitan-style pizza. It’s not perfect, but I don’t think a perfect outdoor oven exists — they all have their quirks, and they all require practice before they will consistently churn out the pizza you are looking for. Here are some thoughts:
What I like about it:
Size. As noted above, I love that the Dome gives me ample room to maneuver my pizza: there is enough space to move a pizza to a cooler or hotter spot as needed. Note: It is not large enough to cook two pizzas at one time (unless they are tiny).
Ease: Easy to turn on; relatively easy to control the temperature.
Fun: This applies to all outdoor pizza ovens — they’re just fun.
Looks: It’s handsome!
Versatility: I’ve cooked fish in it multiple times, and it works great and keeps the house from smelling like fish. I’ve also used it for vegetables — asparagus most recently, but also broccoli rabe and tomatoes.
What I don’t like:
Using wood. In my experience, it takes a lot of wood to get the oven up to temperature, and this takes a lot of time and attention. You need to use smaller logs of wood, which you can order or chop yourself, both of which feel like a pain. More important, when you use wood, it takes up a of space, which leaves you with less room to maneuver the pizza.
Other Things to Consider:
Heat retention. In my experience, portable outdoor ovens tend to lose heat quickly and take time to return to temperature. The Dome is better than many models out there, but it’s still not great. I just ordered this door, which I’m hoping might help with this effort.
Costs: The Dome is more expensive than other models in this genre: $1,999 (though it’s currently $1,799). With any of these ovens, I do think it’s worth investing in the suggested stand and/or table as well as a cover. An infrared thermometer is key as is a turning peel, and a brush is nice to have, too. So in sum, for the Dome set up, you’re looking at:
Total: $2567.99 (before taxes and shipping) — it’s an investment for sure.
If you are in the market for an outdoor oven, this review of the Ooni Koda 16 might be helpful. Please let me know if you have any questions.
Love Pizza? Find recipes, tips, and tricks in Pizza Night 🍕🍕🥗🥗
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Finally someone-you explained why no sweetener in the dough! I’ve read liots of articles and I swear no one addressed the elephant in the room. I’m in Phoenix and I’ve learned which recipe works in my oven and last weeks pizza was once again delicious. I would love an outdoor pizza oven but with 100 + days of 110+ degree days I can’t commit to using it enough. Every time I look at your crust I’m very envious it looks amazing. What a great community of pizza makers there is, helping each other it’s a wonderful thing that the love of cooking and baking does. Thank you for a great practical piece and for your great book. Working on the thin crust pizza can’t wait to perfect it.
so to get a crisper crust in this oven, would you lower the hydration and cook around 650? this is what’s keeping me from investing in one. i really don’t like soft undercarriages. 🤣